During our CM-ET training classes we receive many questions, especially about chain and proper lubrication. In my opinion, the chain is the most abused and neglected part of the motor. It is almost rare to find chain in the field that does not need to be lubricated unless it has just come from the factory. So here they are, your three most frequently asked questions along with our answers:
1. How do I know when the chain needs to be lubricated?
The easiest way to know if your load chain needs lubrication is by watching it as it goes into the chain bag. If it is stacking up on one side as it enters the bag, it is a sure indication that you are lacking proper lubrication.
In past years when riggers were using the old Klein type bags with the single hook connecting to the side of the hoist, the question would come up: How do I avoid the chain coming out of the bag? When the chain is dry and it stacks up, it eventually comes out over the top of the bag.
If the chain is properly lubricated, it will flow evenly and disperse into the bag like water.
Another sure sign of a lack of lubrication is when you have a full load and you hear that “tell all” creaking sound as the chain is running over the lift wheel. What you hear is the chain actually wearing itself out by friction welding the links together and breaking that weld because there is no lube between the them. This is where you get chain wear.
2. What is the proper lubrication to use?
The oil recommended by Columbus McKinnon is 10R made by Lubriplate. There are many other brands that are available that you can get at your local hardware store. What is important is that the lube you obtain have an “EP” additive. The “EP” is short for extreme pressure. Without that additive you will not be able to keep your lubrication between the links while under a full load. Most chain saw manufacturers produce oil for their saws that contain this additive. Most bar and chain lubrications will work.
3. How do I properly lubricate the chain?
There are many ways to lube your chain but I recommend to drop your chain into a bucket and pour the lube over the pile of chain. It is important that the chain be loose and the links separated at this point. If you spray it on while the chain is hanging you might not be able to get between all the links. After adding the lube, hang it up and let the chain drip dry as long as possible and retain as much of the run off so that you can reuse it. At this point I recommend taking some dry rags and wiping the chain down to remove as much of the excessive oil as possible. You will not be able to remove it between the links with this process, and between the links is where you want the lubrication. It is ok if the chain appears to be dry as long as the lube is between the links where it is needed.
Again, lubrication is very important and can not be neglected. Keep an eye out for dry chain.
If you have questions about any of the above or are interested in attending a training class, please feel free to reach us on our new Entertainment Technology website: www.cm-et.com or at our training site www.cmcodepot.com.
Article by Herb Hart
Herb Hart is an Area Sales Manager for Entertainment Products for Columbus McKinnon Corporation.Herb has written 3 article(s).
{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
Dave:
Thank you for your insights. I am quite surprised to find numerous maintenance shops around the world using cement mixers for the cleaning of load chain. Another surprise is that it is rare to find many using the same media inside the mixer. That just tells me there are many ways to accomplish the same goal. I like the idea of using the foam to quiet it down. The racket coming out of the mixer can run you out of the building. I also appreciate your suggestions on marking the links to be reinspected after cleaning. Good advice for all.
The CM Motor Schools in the UK are handled directly by our UK office. I will send you their contact information via email.
Thanks,
Herb Hart
CM-ET
Do you have any details for CM Motor Schools in the UK?
Just a quick thing for lubing chains, we have a cement mixer with the fins taken out of it. You can put about 50 metres of chain into it, then chuck in a load of oily rags and your graphite oil, and leave it for an hour. You’d be surprised how good a job it does. We have some extremely worn chains coming in – very white in colour, with signs of rust, and the tumbler cleans them up very well.
If you’re going to do it, I recommend that you (1) strap the mixer to a pallet and counterweight the back with a couple of stage weights. A long chain can topple it; (2) put some flightcase foam around all the inside of the mixer, else the metal-on-metal makes a right bloody racket; (3) put cable ties in the last link at each end so you can find the end of the chain easily. When it comes out it will be in the most unimaginably tangled mess you can imagine and take half an hour to untangle.
Another thing worth doing is inspecting the chain pre-lubrication, and put coloured cable ties into any ‘suspect’ links, so that when the chain comes out covered in oil, you can easily identify those links and see if the process has sorted them out or whether they are still a problem – since the lubrication process can obviously mask signs of damage in the links.
Hope this might be useful to somebody!
Great blog Herb,
Allan,
Your are right, scary! The contact area on the inner link in only about .006 square inches. Compressive stress exceeds 500,000 psi at full load. Steel on Steel with no lubrication gets hot quick. Simple exercise, rub your hands together as hard as you can. You can’t do that for long, gets too hot. Even a wood screw burns to the touch after it has been installed.
Interesting point about the links friction welding themselves together. Kinda scary that they could get that hot.